Mounting Router on Router Mounting Plate

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11 years 1 month ago - 11 years 1 month ago #9030 by reible
reible created the topic: Mounting Router on Router Mounting Plate
Hi,

I wanted to show you the methods I use to mount a router to a router mounting plate. This is the best way I have ever found and after 32 years of doing this sort of thing I feel it is the best of the best.

Expect this to be a long post as there is a lot of details I'm sharing. Of course there are pictures, but more on that later.

What you are going to hear about and see is a Hitachi M12VC router of which I own 3, (and it might be 4 very soon). The hole pattern that mounts the sub-base happens to be the same as that of the PC690 but uses a different size mounting hole. I could have drilled a common hole to use either but in this case I know I want to use the Hitachi so I matched hole sizes for that.

Please note that we are going to be using the pc style guide bushings, if you have other styles that is beyound this post and you are on your own...

The mounting plate is the one that come with my Jointech kit. It is a phenolic and 3/8\" thick. The center hole is for a collection of insert rings. I should point out the method I'm useing is not the one mentioned in the Jointech instructions.

The idea behind this project is to center the router in the larger hole that comes from the factory. For some uses you need not worry about how close you got things as long as they are in the ball park. However if you want to take advantage of template guide bushing and reducer rings you want to be as close to right on as you can be. The word of this is concentric or having a common line through the center of the router shaft and moving out from that.

To start the process you need to order a kit for doing this. You will have to pick out a kit to fit the mounting screws of your router. I own 4 differt sizes of these to match most of the routers I own. The kit will have instructions so please read and understand them... but do it how I show you. There use to be several places that sold these but right now I know only of one for sure. This should get you there:
pricecutter.com/product.asp?pn=198-0416K

So how does this all come together? First you need to find the ring that accommodating standard template guide bushings. (Please keep in mind that various other standards exist but I will not be covering them). You will need to mount the ring in the mounting plate. The centering washer from the kit is then put in place. The fit should be very snug... no play at all. You can set this aside now while the router is made ready.

Picture time. If your browser can do tabs you might want to keep one tab here and other on the pictures.

www.flickr.com/photos/12199425@N02/sets/72157604365160925/

(A word about the pictures. They are copyrighted. If you want to copy them for your own personal use that is fine. If you plan to use them other places on the web or in a document please contact me for permission.) If you plan to make money with them then plan to cut me in... hey it could happen.)

Since the pictures are labled and they follow the posting in some form of other I will not add any local references. (If you have problem with that let me know and I'll see what I can do).

Depending on the router you should find a plastic sub-base on the very bottom of the router, this is the area that rides on the work piece. It has some screws that are used to mount it to the actual router base. You will need to remove those screws and the sub-base. Be sure to save them as if you want to put it back the way it was you will need them.

In the kit you will find some threaded the alignment pins and a 1/4\" arbor/shaft. The shaft should be mounted in the router like you would a router bit. The pins with the sharp cone shape end needs to be exposed so you can thread the other end into the router base. You want the 3 or 4 of them to be exposed the same amount.

Depending on the router you will need to adjust the arbor/shaft so it extends below the base by say a 1/2\" to 3/4\".

For a bit of review, the arbor/shaft that is mounted in the router is centered on the shaft of the router. The mounting plate has a ring mounted in it and the centering ring now is mounted with a centered 1/4\" hole in it.

Next you need to think about the location of things on the router, like the handles and perhaps the latch or other item that you want to be a some easy to get at location. Once you have the planning done you are ready to do the deed.

You need to put the mounting plate hole over the arbor/shaft and slide them together. Adjust the position of the router like was discussed above. Now you can push down on the plate and do a very small twist back and forth. Then when you have everything the way you want it lightly tap the mounting plate enough to mark the mounting plate with the points of the screws. Pull it apart and make sure you can see the center marks. The small rotation you did should help you find the marks.

I now go back with a auto-center punch and make sure the spots are well marked. With this done you should have everything centered on the shaft of the router, this is of course what you want.

Now comes the time when you need to do the drilling. In my case the router uses a 10-32 fastener so by going to a talble I can look up the hole size. Since I have done these quite a few times already I know I want to get this as close to perfect as I can. The basic options shown under clearance hole drills are for a \"close fit\" or for a \"free fit\". My choise is for the close fit and that means a #9 drill (.1960). For reference the free fit is a #7 drill (.2010). I hope you all know how to drill a hole by now but in this case I'll mention a couple of things just in case. First, before drilling get a feel for the sweet spot on the punch and make sure you can hit it when you start the drilling. Second, when doing the drilling you want to make the hole in one pass... right through, no starts and stops, just smooth and all the way though.

Now you will need to counter-sink the holes or counter-bore if you have flat head mounting screws. In my case I wanted to use the counter- sinking and that is the screws I had so that is what is pictured. I normally eye ball the depth using the bit and the edge. I try to error to not being deep enought and you know why. Well my eye was off a bit and I had to readjust by about a 1/64\". And don't forget to use the depth stop on the drill press...

Next make sure there is no burr on the mounting plate holes you just made. You now need to remove the screws you put in the router base, make sure to save them as you might find you will want to do more of these sorts of projects. One point that you will have to check as you put the new mounting plate on the router is the length of the screws used for the mounting. Makes sure you have plenty of threads engaged, remember the router is going to be hanging upside down on those screws... I'm sure you wouldn't like to see if fall or ever worse fall while it is running. Back the arbor/shaft back inside the router. Mount the router to the mounting plate.

Now with the ring in place, the centering washer in place and everything tightened lower the arbor/shaft and it should go right thought the hole....... mine was perfect.

If yours is not fitting then loosen the screws and see if it will go thougth that way. If so, while the arbor/shaft is place tighten the screws.... check again. If it works now you are still all set. If however you can't get it to work then you will need to redrill the holes. In my case I would have used the #7 bit and kept going until it fit. Now this is really importain, if you need to do this extra work the fit may become such that you will need to do the alignment each time you remove and replace the mounting plate. Even with the \"perfect\" fit I have I make it a habit to use the centering disk each time I change mounting plates.

So the deed is done. If you have guestions please ask away.

Ed
Last Edit: 11 years 1 month ago by reible.

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